1. Install Regular Air Conditioner In Casement Window

1. How to Install a Portable Air Conditioner in a Casement/Crank Window Kara Zorn on April 30, 2014 17 Comments If you think a portable air conditioner isn’t for you because you have crank or casement windows, you may be pleasantly surprised to discover that not only is it possible, but it’s easy to do.
2. Step-by-step, our installation guide will walk you through the process of installing a portable air conditioner into a crank or casement window.

Many people have inexpensive air conditioners that are intended to fit into a double-hung (vertically sliding sash) windows and want to use them in horizontally sliding windows. If you already have some of these air conditioners or are attracted to them because their price tags are significantly lower than that of casement units, portable units, or central air, it is possible to make a frame to adapt them to sliding windows. These solid, simple frames require no exterior brace.

Window air-conditioners provide a cost-effective alternative to expanding the air-conditioning system in a home or adding a system for a detached room. Installing an air-conditioner in a sliding.

This is perfect for apartment dwellers and those who only need an air conditioner a few months of the year. It takes about an hour and some basic lumber and tools to construct these frames.

Once built, your air conditioner can be installed and uninstalled in minutes. (Please note that window air conditioning units aren't intended to be permanently installed. These frames also make it simpler to remove them at the end of the warm season.) The units pictured include unfinished plywood. However, this can be finished, painted or replaced with plexiglass or other materials, as the sheet lumber simply covers an opening and is not structural.

YOU NEED: 2X4s.(2 or less but the amount varies) 12 deck screws (or other long wood screws) Drill Saw Screwdriver Plywood Scrap. These window sills in the picture are fairly deep, allowing for the use of 2X4s. You may be able to substitute other lumber for shallower sills. Step 1: Take Measurements. Measure the width of your air conditioner. Be sure to include any vents that stick out on the side in this measurement.

(My first attempt to build this did not account for the vents and the air conditioner couldn't slide in. I considered building the frame around it but it was simply too awkward to maneuver this frame + air conditioner into place.) Measure the height of your air conditioner. This height should be the box height and not include the lips on the bottom or the top.

Measure the height of the window opening. Take this measurement right up against the window because it will give the shortest height of this opening. (Again, mistakes reminded me that sills can angle away from the window, giving a height that is too long.) Step 2: Cut the Frame Lumber. Lay a shorter piece of 2X4 down and screw the ends of the longer pieces to the ends of this shorter one, as shown. Because of the depth of the lumber, I used deck screws, 2 at each connection point. Create a rectangle by screwing another short piece of 2X4 between the long pieces at the other end, as shown.

Make sure the corners are square. At this point, it's a wise idea to put this rectangle into the window opening to make sure it fits. It should slide in and sit against the window framing. (If it's a little loose, you can use shims to help wedge it in place during installation.) Step 4: Finishing the Frame. Next you will want to dry-fit your air conditioner.

Set the A/C into the frame with the bottom lip against the outside of the frame. You'll notice that the top lip is probably U-shaped with the back side being shorter.

The last piece of 2X4 will sit across the top of this shorter leg of the U (or the top of the A/C if there isn't a second leg). But don't screw it in yet.

To figure out the placement of this piece of 2X4, lean the A/C so that the front vertical piece of the top lip lines up with the front edge of the wood frame. This is how the A/C will be oriented in the frame when complete, tipping the unit back. While you're holding the A/C in place, take a look at the whole configuration to make sure it leans back sufficiently. Air conditioners must drain and are built to tip away from the window. If this lean appears to be too little (it really shouldn't be if the top and bottom lip are properly aligned with the frame), then you might want to rip this last piece of lumber, making it less than 3.5 wide, before screwing it in place.

If everything looks o.k., lay this piece of lumber in place and mark its position on the frame. Also, mark the top edge of the front lip where it will hit this piece of framing.

(This mark is so you can measure for the piece of plywood covering the hole in the top of the frame.) Remove the air conditioner from the frame and screw this piece of lumber in place. It would be good, at this point, to dry-fit the A/C into the frame just to make sure you are on-track. Step 5: Covering the Top of the Frame. Now you will want to measure the opening on the top of this frame for the plywood that will cover the hole. Measure this opening keeping in mind that the piece of plywood cannot be mounted below the long horizontal mark you made on the last piece of 2X4. Screw the plywood covering in place.

Optional Consideration: I realized after I made the frame that it would be really nice to be able to open the window for a breeze to come through on cooler summer days instead of running the A/C. Consider stapling screening material over the side of the frame that faces outside. Then you can hinge the piece of plywood over the opening and install a latch for it so you can open it up when you want. Maybe add some weather-stripping to ensure a good seal with the door is closed. Step 6: Installation. To install this frame, simply open the window and slide it inside up against the window framing.

If you want to add extra stability to the installation and/or prevent it from leaning directly against the window frame, screw it into place by running long screws through the wooden frame and into the framing around the window opening. You can also use angle brackets for the side that you cant screw-in. Slide the A/C into place and secure by running a screw or two through the lip. The weight of the unit should keep it in place but this is extra insurance. If the frame seems a little too loose to you, you can always use shims to wedge it tightly in place. Fill any gaps around the opening.

You can use a removable caulk, trim narrow pieces of foam insulation, or other ways to fill the gaps. My boyfriend and I used this guide to make a frame to fit in my windows for an A/C. Super cheap and easy. I had spent $32 on a proper 'mounting frame' but it still seemed unsteady so we checked online and found your guide!

The 2x4s only cost $6 and it took MAYBE an hour from first cut to last screw drilled in place. The best part is that I can take it with me when I move, and can help friends to make their own. To 'pretty it up,' I'm going to cover the wood with a painting/drawing of mine.

I thought about painting it to match the walls, but it doesn't look bad at all really- and it WORKS!! Ack, I just wanted to mention, that to get an angle for any water to drip out, once the sides and bottom were done, I held the A/C with the back tilted downwards a bit, and my boyfriend put the middle bar right on top and drilled it in place (from outside the frame in, of course). So instead of being straight, the middle bar is already at an angle. Also, we drilled the frame into 3 sides of the window sill - that sucker is going NOWHERE! (I mention it because I didn't quite understand your directions, although my boyfriend knew what you were talking about, lol) THANKS again. The way you screwed in the center bar makes sense. Yeah, I can see that it might need to go in at an angle to keep the unit angled.

I'm also glad that you guys figured out how to secure the frame. I'll bet that thing is solid! It makes me very happy that people are getting some use out of these instructions. I have crank windows now and don't have my pics of this project because I didn't even think of documenting it as an instructable when I was making my frames for the old windows. So I have to rely on my words, some drawings, and old pictures.

My husband thinks I might have over-engineered the frames a little but I figure safety first! Love the idea, but I have casement windows with a 15' width and 54' height, and want to move to a different location in my living room, so cockatiels (9) are not subjected to the cold air so much. The spot I want has a sofa right a the bottom of where the A/C would go. So my question: would there be any reason not to build the wood frame so the A/C is on the top portion of the window, so you don't get frozen sitting in front of it? Seems to me it would work, but what precautions should I take to make sure it doesn't fall in or out, or would it be a problem at all?

Thank you so much for creating this post. Thanks to you I was able to do this project all by myself and now have a/c just in time for this week's 110+ heatwave.

Of course I had to tweak the details for the particularities of my window and a/c/ unit (which had large 'feet' on the back preventing it from sliding into a pre-assembled frame. I had to assemble sections of the frame and then fasten the sections together during the installation process (that was 'fun'. LoL) For this season, I focused on structural support and my results, I admit, are neither pretty nor perfect.

In October I will remove the unit and use the frame as a template to make a nicer one for next summer:-) Again, Thank you so very much!! You are a huge help, thanks for the instruct, this is how I am going to mount my 2nd AC I just got for my bedroom, and I'm also going to redo the front room as well, as it is set up with a typical rigged outside support base made of wood that is big and bulky. This will clear up space and look professional as well. I had bought 2 sheets of thick plexi to rig in to a standard jimmy rigged install but now they will go with this instruct as part of a nice clean pro looking install, painted and all.

Can't wait to get crackin! Thanks again! The weight of the air conditioner (well, its compressor) is what helps with this. They are designed to be heavier toward the back to help them angle downward slightly when installed properly. This is important because it helps the units drain water that accumulates on the evaporator coil through normal use. Water drips from them outside, not inside, because of the angle created through the design/weight distribution.

If you want, you can secure them to your window opening, either with angle brackets or by screwing through the a/c frame into the stud that frames the window. I tried hard to get someone-anyone!-to install a standard a/c unit in a slider window in our living room but no luck. One guy who came over said I needed a mini-split system (not a piddly window unit) and gave me a quote of around $4,000. I wish I could afford that, but that is definitely not in the budget. Which is why this post is a godsend.

I'm about the furthest from a carpenter a guy could possibly be. Still, these instructions looked, well, doable, even for me. Spent about an hour walking around the local big box hardware store looking for lumber and plywood and deck screws. I also had to buy a cordless drill and a cool trim saw attachment I used for the plywood panel. Wife and dog are happy now. Guess that makes me happy too. Mahalo starshipminivan!

I am wanting to do this in a pinch. I pulled a table up to window, stacked books, to prop ac up to level of sill. Taped a painting in window and cardboard to fill gaps. But, the water wouldn't drip out window because it was tilted toward the sill, inside.

Hence not platform. Now i have dismantled. Suggested to me to use siding inside of painting which is framed. Does siding come in slabs rather that strips, i wonder.

Any suggestions. I'll watch the video in How To steps you provided.

I want to see how to sit my ac onto the sill. I dont see a platform here in pic, and that's usually how it's done. Hi, My window space is 17 3/8.

Do you have any suggestions for me? I am desperate. It is very hot this week and Friday will be 101, maybe higher too due to humidity. I am going to buy a 5000 btu unit and am hoping to somehow get this in this space. There is not enough space to frame it. I could place a wood frame above the unit but how to hold the unit to this frame is the question. Plywood would of course cover the frame.

Starshipminivan do you have any suggestions? Thanks for your help or anyone else who has any ideas. I just finished this project. Thanks for the instructions. It was a little more challenging because I only had warped 2x4's.

Perhaps I got lucky because everything fit ok. Needed a little tweaking here & there. My cross-piece in the center had to stick out a little toward the front to accommodate the A.C. Stapling the screen to the back worked fine. I worked with some bracket steel and made little holders that the cover board slid into on the bottom, and fashioned some twist latches on the top corners to make installing and removing the board easier. Thanks again.

It is SO hot. The swamp cooler just doesn't work anymore. Now our bedroom is our little oasis. I think that looks great.

Sure, the Plexiglas looks nicer but I'm sure the cost is high on that. I have the window brackets to hold my air conditioner in, but don't have a clue how to install properly. No instructions, purchased used.

Is there any way you could show how to do that? I would really appreciate.

I can't even figure out how to remove the air conditioner from the case to install to the brackets first and then put the conditioner back into the case. That is what a neighbour said they thought I should do. I have searched for hours online looking for some kind of instruction with no luck. Thanks for all your suggestions.

Install Regular Air Conditioner In Casement Window

Other than having central air conditioning, there are two practical solutions to the casement window issue:. Casement Air Conditioners with Special Kits: These AC units are made specifically for casement windows.

They often come with kits that have pre-cut inserts and fasteners made to hold the inserts firmly in place. Having the kit eliminates the need to buy other material, such as plexiglass or styrofoam, to block the open area. Portable Air Conditioners: These air conditioners are excellent choices for rooms with casement windows. They come in both vented and vent-less styles.

If you buy a vented casement window AC unit, you’ll need an insert for the window to house a venting hole for the hose. You'll also need insulation tape and something to keep the window open. If you buy a vent-less doesn’t need a window insert. In fact, you can keep the window closed and place the portable air conditioner wherever you want it.

Determining which kind of AC unit to buy for rooms with casement windows should be based on two factors - convenience and floor space. Portable air conditioners take up floor space. If your living space is small a portable AC might not be the best solution. Casement window units will require a bit more time and effort to install, but they won't consume floor space.

In the end, it is you who must decide which factors are more important - floor space or convenience. Whatever you decide, having the character that casement windows add to your home makes it worth the extra effort to find the kind of air conditioning system that best fits their character.